natural material, leather reinvents itself

Since the dawn of time, man has collected the skin of the animals on which he feeds to transform it and clothe himself with it. This reuse of part of the animal intended to be thrown away makes the leather industry an example of upcycling – recovering unused materials or products to transform them into materials or products of higher quality and/or utility.

Carine Montarras, fashion project manager at Première Vision, highlighted during the Fashion Rendez-Vous show, which was held on June 30 and July 1, 2021 in Paris, that “LThe total food industry waste avoided, thanks to the French Leather Industry, represents 170,000 tonnes per year, the equivalent of the weight of 24 Eiffel Towers.

Subject to strict regulations, the tanning industry extends the performance of leather by making it more innovative and developing a new generation of materials. RKnown for its quality and resistance over time, leather can be repaired, purchased second-hand or rented… and is therefore part of a circular economy approach. Explanations.

Synthetic, vegan, vegetable leather: incorrect indications

Materials – which some brands call leather “vegan” Or “vegetal” – have become trendy in recent years because they have been presented as more ethical than leather (to meet the needs of consumers who are looking for responsible brands committed to an ecological and environmentally friendly approach). The animal cruelty argument and the defense of leather vegan being then highlighted, to the point that consumers and creators turned away from it: Karl Lagerfeld stopped using exotic skins in 2020 while American Vintage stopped using angora in 2021.

Yet “materials not derived from the processing of animal skin are excluded from the term leather” indicates the National Leather Council and, in particular, synthetic materials from petrochemicals or of plant origin. This abuse of language can mislead the consumer. According to a decree of 2010: “eis called leather, any material from the tanned skin of an animal (cow, lamb, goat, fish, etc.) but cannot be called leather any material of synthetic or vegetable origin presenting an appearance similar to that of leather “. So leather “vegan”, “wooden”, “apple”, “pineapple”, “mushroom”, “eco-leather”, “imitation leather”, “synthetic”, “flyleather” and “fruit” are misnomers.

The consumer must also pay attention to the use of names “vegetable leather” And “vegetable tanned leather”, which must “refer to leathers tanned using vegetable tannins (oak, beech, etc.)” further specifies Carine Montarras, fashion project manager at Première Vision. So thehe leather goods brand Pranay, which has opted for vegetable-tanned leathers, uses natural products such as tree bark or rose buds which make the leather strong, water-resistant and rot-proof.

Alternative materials to leather

FILK (Institute For Leather & Synthetic Materials), a German testing and research institute, has published a comparative study on the physical properties of leather and nine so-called alternative materials composed of cactus, apple, pineapple, mushrooms and other plants. The study reveals “that none of these alternative materials have the natural qualities of leather in terms of wear, longevity and resistance to cracking, permeability, water absorption and tearing”. This study also shows that some of these materials “contain some components of synthetic origin (such as polyurethane) or even traces of substances harmful to health (such as phthalates)”.

“These new materials have been developed to replace imitation leather such as skai” specifies Carine Montarras. “These are coated canvases with reduced ecological impact made, for example, with an organically sourced material (from the food industry) mixed with a binder (polyurethane) on a canvas (Apple skin – Frumat, Vegéa, Pinatex…). They haves different levels of durability from leather but they are not biodegradable.”

In addition, biotechnology companies, designers and artisans are developing “of the interesting products based on algae, mycellium…” she indicates.

Leather traceability

At a time when consumers, in search of a green attitude, is mobilizing for the future of the planet, it is demanding more and more information on the origin of skins. Whether to improve the quality of skins or to guarantee the origin of leather, French tanners and tanners are subject to strict regulations regarding the environment and virtuous practices, recalls the National Leather Council: “France is, today, innovative by offering laser marking of raw hides, traditionally marked in batches, up to the processing stages. This technique allows the slaughterhouse to ensure traceability between the animal and the skin by marking it with a laser with a unique code.

Made from a natural raw material, leather is resistant, rot-proof and breathable. Its flexibility and elasticity give it numerous applications and an inimitable feel thanks to the tanning industry which extends its performance by making it ever more innovative: water-repellent, machine washable, printable, perfumed, stretchable, ultra light, tactile, etc.